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Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel
L'avis de Gault&Millau
A Gault&Millau Australia TOP 100 restaurant
English-born Executive Chef Robin Wickens worked at a number of respected London restaurants, including Pied à Terre and The Glasshouse, before moving to Australia in 2000, when he opened the lauded Interlude in Melbourne.
Wickens provides a visual feast on many levels. Make your way to the entrance through a garden filled with wildflowers, then step into the stunning dining room with floor-to-ceiling glass offering views of bushland plus Mt Sturgeon and Mt Abrupt, while off to the side are uninterrupted views of the kitchen.
Wickens offers a five- or eight-course degustation menu, with much of the produce coming from the kitchen garden and used to great effect in dishes such as blue eye with grilled octopus and chrysanthemum puree. The slightly tangy chrysanthemum puree is a lovely accompaniment to the smoky octopus and delicate blue eye. The delicious blood crumpet with fromage de tête is balanced with a gentle lovage emulsion. Protein is again handled with aplomb for their wattle-smoked duck with nettle puree and earthy beetroot.
PSST! Royal Mail Hotel’s extensive, world-class wine cellar holds some 28,000 bottles. Book a guided tour for just $25 per person.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide