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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Art Deco treasure? Tick. No pokies? Tick. Proper pub music? Tick. What’s not to love about Paddington’s Unicorn Hotel? Styled as a community hub by the guys behind Mary’s Newtown and The Lansdowne, Head Chef Jimmy Garside brings a relaxed vibe to this Oxford Street grand dame.
The downstairs wood-panelled dining room leads out to a bright courtyard perfect for an Indian summer. Beers are craft or Aussie nostalgic or check out the natural and low-sulphur cellar on hand.
You might be tempted by a proper meat pie, or perhaps opt for the munchies-inspired potato scallop, fried crisp with a dollop of kimchi, crème fraîche and salmon roe. Steak sourced from Rangers Valley comes in a ‘daily’ version and a ‘fancy’ one – wagyu onglet served perfectly rare with a lemon wedge to cut the richness. More char and smokiness make a plate of barbecued broccoli with anchovy dressing a highlight, as is a perfectly seared ling fillet served with gremolata and a lemon cheek.
PSST! Join The Bearded Nonna on Mondays for craft beer and a plate of pasta for $20.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide