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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Coskun Uysal has used his Turkish heritage and ancestry to create his unique and complex menu at Tulum. To keep things spicy, the focus of his menu changes to a different region of Turkey every three months.
A charming, long room leads all the way to the kitchen at the rear. Middle Eastern lamps, Turkish music playing in the background and ethnic plates add to the atmosphere.
The five-course degustation menu includes intricate, refined Turkish dishes. Start with sogan – a theatrical dish of stuffed onion with spiced rice and a mushroom puree. The waiter delicately pours apple tea over the dish for the finishing touch. Balik is a fish course of a cube of barramundi with tahini, baba ganoush soup and a crunchy leek cigar borek. Anali kizli – lamb and bulghur meatballs with lamb-fat onion puree – has a floral appearance. Kuzu is a block of lamb neck with a crusty crumble of sucuk, the signature milky Tulum cream with tahini and a Jerusalem artichoke crisp. The textural elements work magically together.
PSST! On Tuesdays and Wednesdays there’s a special three-course degustation for $50, plus you can BYO on Wednesdays (only).
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide