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L'avis de Gault&Millau
UPDATE: In February 2019, Josue Lopez (ex-GOMA) took over as owner/chef at The Wolfe.
In this busy local neighbourhood restaurant, Chef Paul McGivern (ex-e’cco bistro) specialises in classic European-style dishes with fresh, clean flavours – and then adds a little contemporary pizazz.
Paul’s partner Bailey runs the front of house with a mix of professional efficiency and personal attention. The space is small and intimate with a long leather banquette along one wall, long mirrors, original prints of wolves and a comptoir-style bar.
The concise menu changes regularly. Start with sardines on toast – fresh grilled sardines with shallots and chilli salsa served on toast spread with lardo – a great balance of distinct flavours and textures. A duck breast is pink, tender and juicy with a crisp skin, and served in a creamy kohlrabi sauce with sweet micro-vegetables and crisp wafers of bacon. The creamy risotto delivers the delicate flavours of mushrooms and garlic topped with sweet parmesan reggiano. There are some excellent small vineyard wines to choose from and you can BYO early in the week.
PSST! The Wolfe has a regularly changing range of excellent cheeses to go with the wine.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide