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The Welcome Hotel
L'avis de Gault&Millau
At The Welcome Hotel, tucked away in the backstreets of Rozelle, you will find Slovenian Chef Kristjan Oplanič cooking Sardinian food better than most Sardinians. Previously at Sage Dining Rooms in Canberra, he has taken up the mantle here and it is certainly worth the detour.
Yes, you’re in a pub – but the dining room is elegant, quiet and secluded, and the menu is innovative and authentic.
In Sardinia, the pomegranate is a symbol of abundance and prosperity, and the crispy cauliflower with three-cheese sauce and pomegranate certainly delivers on that message. Oven-roasted and served with a rich cheese sauce, it is balanced in taste and contrast. But the pastas are the must-do item here. The radiatori (similar in shape to the more traditional malloreddus) with pork and fennel ragu and porcini mushrooms is satisfying and perfectly seasoned. The pan-fried potato gnocchi with mushrooms, artichokes and sage butter is impressive both in its ethereal texture and the complexity and balance in the sauce and ingredients.
PSST! You can get most of the menu at the bar, so the counter meal just got way more interesting.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide