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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Andrew Beddoes leads a talented team at The Grand. They present a classic Italian menu full of old faithfuls, focusing on only the freshest available local ingredients and simple, effective presentation.
The Grand’s dining room presents an elegant yet relaxing atmosphere, ‘grand’ not only in name, but also in style, too. Smart, linen-dressed tables sit under high ceilings and stylish chandeliers, contrasted by colourful windows. The service team are skilled and knowledgeable.
Vitello tonnato – tenderly poached veal slices drizzled with a tuna mayonnaise – is a modern presentation of this very traditional dish, with capers and lemon providing the finishing touches. The solid flesh of swordfish is perfectly suited to chargrilling. Lovely grill marks show off the fish, which is served with salmoriglio (the very flavoursome southern Italian herb and garlic condiment), radicchio and chicory. Perhaps add a side of classic Italian spinach, sautéed in olive oil, garlic and lemon, and finished with grated parmesan.
PSST! One weekend a month, The Grand offers Italian yum cha, bringing together two great cuisines. Look for the dates on the website.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide