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L'avis de Gault&Millau
At The Apollo, Chef Jonathan Barthelmess and business partner Sam Christie from Longrain have produced a menu that puts a modern spin on traditional Greek dishes.
The contemporary, stripped-back decor features exposed concrete walls, wooden tables, dark banquettes, bentwood chairs and tall stools at the bar. The moody, subdued lighting is supplemented by the liberal use of candles.
The dishes are designed to be shared and are presented with an unusual twist. Creamy taramasalata is topped with golden pearls of roe, sealed in tiny glass jars and accompanied by warm triangles of pita bread. Baked eggplant salad is a beautiful balance of smoky eggplant puree, a crisp green salad of parsley and mint, the crunch of roasted almonds and a sprinkling of fresh, tangy pomegranate arils. Dry-aged pork chop is served like a prime cut of steak – succulent, tender and still pink in the middle; garlic and rosemary give the meat a delicious depth of flavour.
PSST! The Apollo doesn’t take bookings for small parties, so register with reception and enjoy a drink at a nearby bar while you’re waiting.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide