UPDATE: In April 2019, Stephen Peak was appointed as Head Chef at The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery Gault&Millau Australia TOP 100 restaurant.
The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery is headed up by Chef Ali Currey-Voumard, whose seasonal menu showcases the very best of local produce.
Set in the grounds of the majestic Willow Court (c. 1830s), the serenity belies its former use as a mental asylum, with beams of natural light flooding into the charming Bronte Building.
The ethos of minimising food miles through supporting local producers is evident on both the construct of the menu and delivery on the plate. The clean and well-balanced raw lamb tartare with parsley, anchovy cream and crisps is a perfect prelude to the wood-roasted beetroot cooked in fish sauce. Fried cauliflower is perfectly counterpointed by smoked shellfish sauce, while the flawless tagliatelle with delicately smoked morwong, ricotta and lettuce hits the next level. Similarly, the impossibly tender Derwent Valley braised lamb falls off the bone, with the flavoursome garnish of stinging nettle, brassica leaves and horseradish sealing the deal.
PSST! Owners Rodney Dunn and Séverine Demanet run the nearby Agrarian Kitchen Cooking School and Farm, offering cooking classes incorporating their own and local produce.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide