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L'avis de Gault&Millau
A Gault&Millau Australia TOP 100 restaurant
Head Chef Matthew Breen does not overcomplicate the menu at Templo, an intimate 20-seat eatery on the fringes of the CBD. The modern Italian menu showcases produce ideally sourced from within 50 kilometres of the restaurant.
There is nothing pretentious about the fit-out, just a simply appointed space with a large blackboard and a smallish bar as you walk in. The feel of service is informal; however, it is both attentive and well informed.
The freshly baked sourdough and gnocco fritto is like a warm hug, before the stunning ox tongue with anchovy and broccoli flowers delivers an early punch. Who would have thought the combination of beetroot, buttermilk and lightly roasted macadamias that follows could taste so good? The roll continues with a memorable house-made gramigna made with nettle, with pork sausage tossed through it, and a haunting resonance of pepper to connect the dots, while crispy-skinned John Dory with beans reinforces the theme that less is indeed more.
PSST! Booking ahead is advised, with two dinner sittings available each night between Thursday and Monday.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide