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L'avis de Gault&Millau
With a résumé that covers a number of high-profile Sydney restaurants, such as Merivale’s Mr. Wong, Chef Khanh Nguyen brings inventive South-East Asian cuisine – influenced by Australian-made ingredients – to Melbourne.
Floor-to-ceiling windows front this two-storey venue. The ground floor offers communal tables set against industrial scaffolding decor, and the kitchen features an open plating platform where diners can watch the action up close.
Sunda is the new kid on the block, and it has entered the Melbourne scene with a bang. While the menu might be short, the contemporary Asian flavours are larger than life and paired with native Australian ingredients. Expect to see an ‘otak otak’ spanner crab curry presented in the form of a parfait and topped with intricate droplets of finger lime and light flakes of crabmeat – use the accompanying puffed rice crisps to scoop it up. From the larger dishes, the lamb rump – pink and tender – is a delight, while the blackened crust retains a crunchy texture. The accompanying sauces are earthy with a hint of sweetness.
PSST! Need a gift idea for a foodie? How about a Sunda voucher?
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide