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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Following two years as sous chef, and a trip eating his way around the steakhouses of Argentina, Stephen Clark is now in charge at San Telmo. This city laneway venue is a brilliant canvas for him to blend a love of Australian produce with a passion for the vivaciousness of South American food.
With aged meat on display, cowhides and vintage photos of Argentinian heroes on the walls, deep red carpets and South American jazz playing, San Telmo is an escape to a Buenos Aires parrilla.
While Argentina is certainly well represented, influences from across the region and further afield make this a menu worth exploring. Starters include delicious South American favourites – such as the humble empanada and ceviche – often incorporating a nod to other international cuisines. Yet these mouth-watering starters are only the opening act for the real stars, which are the Gippsland steaks from the O’Connor family farm. Cooked over the imported Argentine grill, perfectly seared steaks are brought to the table, and are designed to share.
PSST! Serious meat lovers can purchase a set of San Telmo-branded steak knives.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide