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L'avis de Gault&Millau
A Gault&Millau Australia TOP 100 restaurant
Chef Donovan Cooke’s CV is without peer, having worked at the Savoy Hotel, The Waterside Inn and Harvey’s before wowing diners in Melbourne at Est Est Est, Luxe, Ondine and The Atlantic.
The smart–casual fit-out at Ryne strips back the formality of fine dining, leaving a blank canvas for the accomplished front of house and kitchen brigade to win you over with their impressive delivery of the food and wine service.
The horseradish panna cotta, featuring beetroot three ways and toasted almond, is a triumph of textures and seasonality. Similarly, the well-seasoned and flawlessly seared scallops – with crispy chicken wings, compressed pumpkin, pomegranate, and gingerbread puree – demonstrates an understanding of flavours and harmony. The excellent roast pigeon, with a divine reduction that defies belief, is an encore of a previous signature dish. While impressive, nothing tops the glory of ‘Pierre Koffmann’s’ sublime stuffed pig trotters, a dish that earned its place in culinary history for very good reason.
PSST! The talented pastry chef delivers innovative desserts under the watchful eye of Chef Cooke, who can be sighted checking every component.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide