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Raita Noda Chef’s Kitchen
L'avis de Gault&Millau
A Gault&Millau Australia TOP 100 restaurant
After serving his apprenticeship at Matsukaze Japanese, now Azuma, Chef Raita Noda later became Head Chef at Ocean Room. When this closed due to refurbishment of the Overseas Terminal, Chef Noda opened his tiny eponymous restaurant, where he and his son, Momotaro, are the only staff.
The restaurant features just eight to ten tall and very solid padded stools at the counter. Basic black decor is softened by the addition of bamboo screens and wafting light projections.
The ten-course omakase menu depends on what’s best on the day, with a focus on seafood. Oysters with shiso butter sorbet kickstart the tastebuds. Succulent soft-shell crab is enclosed in a crunchy dumpling taco. A mille feuille with pounded scampi fried into crisp leaves sandwiching moist scampi flesh flavoured with finger lime and kaffir lime delights all the senses. Exquisitely cooked wagyu steak, simply served with dots of yuzu wasabi, black salt and deep-fried brussels sprouts, is gorgeous … and all this before the sashimi and sushi courses!
PSST! The meal takes up to four hours, so be sure to allow plenty of time.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide