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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Chefs Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate are almost household names in Sydney, with their multi-restaurant formula that celebrates the core tenets of Argentinian cooking and includes a large nod to the best of Spain.
Porteño is decked out in a sleek, southern European style, with leather booths, dark woods and classic tiled floors. The stunning bar and open kitchen are the central focus and shape the atmosphere, which is always exciting and convivial.
The stars of the show here are the meats cooked on the parrilla grill, but there are some very good reasons to stray from that path in the hongos con faina: wood-fire mushrooms with garlic, chickpea croquettes and kale pesto. This deceptively simple dish is bold, layered and boasts satisfying flavours and textures. Morcilla con cereales is a well-balanced dish of grilled blood sausage, charred corn, hot cereal and roast pear. Thick gnocchi-like herb and potato noodles served with bright green beans and an impossibly light battered zucchini flower delivers an exciting blend of flavours and textures that is all comfort.
PSST! Unlike the old location, you can now book for any number of people.
That said – with this place – the more the merrier!
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide