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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Malcolm Hanslow (ex-Oscillate Wildly, Automata and ester in Sydney) has forged new ground at the former site of Pulp Kitchen, which was reshaped last year by Gus Armstrong and the team from eightysix.
With polished concrete floors and touches of dark wood, the serene and minimalist room swarms with efficient staff who can faultlessly guide you through the menu. So, you can ask for a more detailed run-down … or you can wing it.
Embracing maximum seasonality and local sourcing, the concise menu is constantly changing. The tartare is an excellent lightly smoked wagyu on a crisp blin with shaved cured egg yolk. Al dente octopus tentacles curl on a skewer, grilled char siu-style. A perfect, moist and sweet whole flounder is dusted with ground jade-green curry leaf; it lolls by a lake of golden ‘curry’ de Paris butter, lifting it to another dimension. Pork and pepita combine with a striking jerk-spiced pork chop, carved off the bone, with a quenelle of verdant pepita mousse, house-made flatbread and grilled lime halves.
PSST! The prix-fixe menu can be paired with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic selections.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide