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New Apple Bar
L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Sam Hardinge (ex-Spicers Sangoma Retreat), in partnership with Michael Robertson (ex-Sean’s Panaroma), is stoking the embers at this reinvented Bilpin restaurant. Uber-local produce shines on the tight but focused menu, with dishes licked by the smoke of the central open kitchen’s wood-burning oven and grill.
The cosy, rustic room is an ideal place to stop on a leisurely weekend road-trip to the Blue Mountains or make it a destination for an escape from the city.
The wood stove lends itself to popping out great rounds of house-made, crisp, pillowy pizza dough topped with restraint: potatoes, rosemary and anchovy or salami, tomato and provolone. Choices are driven by seasonality and locality. Cuts of Bilpin Black Angus from merely a paddock away nestle on the plate with hand-cut chips. Roasted spatchcock, the baby bird bronzed by the flames, is fragrant with wood smoke. Emerald broccolini, lightly scorched, is tossed in almonds, butter and a lick of cider from the cellar door over the road.
PSST! Try the apple galette for dessert because you are in one of the state’s prime apple-growing regions.