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L'avis de Gault&Millau
A Gault&Millau Australia TOP 100 restaurant.
Nelly Robinson continues to delight diners with his magic and dynamic creative degustation menu.
Located downstairs, the open kitchen dominates the simply furnished, softly lit dining room.
The emphasis here is on the food: simple, exciting, unusual, mindful food, where it is necessary to consider each mouthful. On the side of the table, a candle burns down quickly during an appetiser of tomato and vinegar marshmallow rolled in parmesan and served under a small tree, with gelatine parcels of foie gras and blood orange hanging from the branches – tasty morsels. The candle, made of pork marrow with thyme, becomes the sauce for a steamed chicken bun – brilliant flavours and great theatre. Cured Tasmanian salmon is served with brown bread sauce, small rye biscuits and a radish–koshu grape jelly – a great balance of flavours and delicate textures. Partridge, pear and cabbage is a rich, tasty dish featuring breast of partridge with rillettes on a puree of cabbage with
baby turnip and charred pear.
PSST! Arrive a little early and try one of nel.’s cocktails or mocktails.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide