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L'avis de Gault&Millau
The Speakeasy Group of Eau de Vie and The Roosevelt has engaged Swedish-born Joachim Borenius as Head Chef at this Viking-themed establishment. Chef Borenius (ex-Pei Modern and Bouche on Bridge) has embraced the cooking and carving of large portions of meat, even entire animals.
This underground cave is furnished with heavy wooden tables; a bar stocked with hundreds of bottles, mostly whiskies; and all sorts of Viking-themed paraphernalia. Low ceilings, warm lighting and divided dining spaces give the room a certain intimacy and create an expectation of something special.
Gravlax with pickled cucumber is a fresh, palate-stimulating entree. Or you could start with soft roasted cauliflower on burnt butter, generously sprinkled with a mix of pepitas and almonds. The short rib – a menu regular – arrives attached to an impressive bone, the melting meat accompanied by a scrumptious charcoal-coloured onion soubise. Or you could opt for the pork belly –a generous roll of moist pork wrapped in crunchy crackling with a luscious miso–apple butter.
PSST! Mjølner delivers a unique dining experience offering guests escapism with the enjoyment of fine food and world-class beverages.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide