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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Thomas Boyd (ex-The Ledbury, and previously an apprentice at Margan Restaurant) is certainly no stranger to the deep-rooted culture and ever-present mindset of sustainability at this staunchly committed agri-dining destination.
Situated in a magnificent setting in Broke, Margan Restaurant forms an integral part of Margan Estate, bringing to life the synergy between vineyard, wine and food, thanks to the one-acre kitchen garden, orchard, olive groves and beehives.
A kaleidoscope of colours, flavours and textures, the tomato, goat curd, olive and summer herbs entree is truly beautiful in all three of these character traits. This dish has almost zero food miles, with every ingredient except the goat curd either grown and/or made on the estate. Kudos! Next up is the Macleay Valley beef rump cap cooked two ways, very slowly braised and pressed into a quaint rectangular block, and also pan roasted with the cap fat perfectly rendered and deliciously caramelised, served medium rare with voluptuous roasted bone marrow morsels, an intensely flavoured caramelised onion gel, kohlrabi and a richly decadent jus.
PSST! Ask for an outside table to soak up the stunning views of the Brokenback Range.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide