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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Chef Giulio Bertone is front and centre in the kitchen at Mantecato, a neighbourhood Italian risotteria named after the final crucial act of whisking butter into the risotto to ensure its velvet-like texture.
Convivial laughter fills this warm, inviting, tastefully decorated local favourite. An underlying wine theme runs throughout the main dining room and courtyard.
Lightly fried calamari, prawns and zucchini (fritto misto), crunchy and moist, the batter lightly gracing the fresh seafood and zucchini, comes nestled with a small dish of rustic, gutsy aioli and an accompanying wedge of lemon that’s ideal for cutting through this dish’s inherent richness. The alla Milanese con osso buco is a timeless Italian classic, with Mantecato’s take consisting of saffron risotto topped with braised veal osso buco. The veal is fall-off-the-bone tender, and the marrow-filled shin bone is home to unctuous and unashamed indulgence. All this meaty goodness is served with risotto, archetypally presented, suitably wet and saffron flavoured.
PSST! Allow co-owner Marco Orso to take you on an Italian wine journey back through the decades with his extensive wine list.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide