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Jugemu & Shimbashi
L'avis de Gault&Millau
Chef Masahiko Tojo has been making soba noodles twice a day for the past 38 years. Having spent years as an apprentice to Yoshinori Shibazaki – the only soba master in Australia and one of just 50 accepted in Japan – Chef Tojo has certainly perfected his trade.
The restaurant has an authentic feel and encompasses both the modern and traditional through the combination of a two-in-one style approach. Based on the Japanese ideal of perfecting one style or dish, Jugemu focuses on teppanyaki style, and Shimbashi on more traditional noodles.
A classic beginning of sashimi gives you an indication of what is to follow. Well-handled, and incredibly fresh fish is served simply. By contrast, the assorted mushrooms dish is an umami bomb, with a clever blend of textures. But the must-do dishes here are various freshly made soba. The rich and complex chicken and mushroom broth is served with plain and chilli soba. The cold noodles contrast well with the warm broth providing a delightful experience across flavour and texture.
PSST! You can watch Chef Tojo making fresh soba noodles through a glass booth at the front of the restaurant.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide