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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Peter Gunn has developed a loyal following at his stylish Collingwood eatery, with his distinctive and innovative style that has a multi-demographical appeal to those diners who appreciate the technique that underpins the dishes.
The incessant buzz and theatre of Smith Street is muted in the dark room with skin-covered tables, giving way to a culinary performance that both surprises and delights, with edgy twists throughout the journey.
Towers of roasted shallots, stuffed with cream cheese and black garlic, and served with lime caviar and fresh coconut, is a sharply plated and balanced dish, showcasing excellent acidity and layering of textures. Likewise, the flawlessly cooked kingfish glazed with mustard, served with a noticeably traditional sauce, is a very cohesive dish. The flavoursome lamb course, featuring both the neck and rib separately, with sublime potato, pickled turnip and grain mustard, is innovatively presented, which is a recurring theme throughout the menu.
PSST! The mysterious signature black box dessert does not disappoint, and comes replete with the perfect implement to break through and discover the luxuriant contents.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide