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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Former owners Naomi Hunt and Chef Gregory Llewellyn gave Hartsyard a thorough makeover, including the menu, and reopened in early 2018. Now seeking a change, the pair are moving on and talented Head Chef Jarrod Walsh (ex-QT Sydney and Automata) has taken over the restaurant.
The new dining room seems lighter and brighter, but there’s still the friendly, bottle-laden bar and long banquettes to lend this place a festive air.
Tuna crudo, highlighted with shavings of persimmon, yuzu, burnt onion and mustard greens, opens delicately on the palate, while earthy beef tartare is contrasted with savoury seared tongue, black garlic crème and lip-smacking salt and vinegar crisps. There’s an exotic blend of East meets West in a dish of broccoli, cut thick and chargrilled before being dressed with crisp curry leaves, finger lime and pistachios. Maple and koji grilled pork belly with gai lan and onion soy is a delicious dish that flies the flag for the United States‘ southern cuisine.
PSST! If you’re hankering for Hartsyard’s fried chicken, you’ll find the entire Southern menu at sister restaurant Wish Bone, further along Enmore Road.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide