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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Given his previous wealth of experience in Canberra, it makes perfect sense for Head Chef Kurt Neumann (ex-Ottoman Cuisine and Alto Tower) to have chosen to head up his own restaurant at Grazing in the historic Royal Hotel at Gundaroo.
With its own kitchen garden shaping the seasonal menu, Grazing is a welcome hub to showcase the best food and wine of the Capital Region.
The artisanal produce-driven philosophy shows on the plate, starting with the spice-crusted and honey-glazed pork belly (sourced from Bathurst), barbecued carrot and pickled lettuce, which is an undeniable triumph of sublime textures and flavour. Likewise, the Crookwell lamb scotch fillet delivers the distinctive flavour of the protein, with the more-ish onion consommé, speck, broad beans and artichoke the perfect accompaniments. Save some of the exceptional house-baked bread to polish off the remnants, and be sure to order a side of the hand-cut chips with aioli to fully seal the deal.
PSST! Allow some space between the generous savoury courses and dessert, and stroll around the impressive gardens, the Gundog Estate cellar door and the function spaces.
Reviewed for the 2019 guide