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L'avis de Gault&Millau
It’s the small touches that will whisk you away to Paris, but that’s just part of the illusion created by owner and Executive Chef Frédéric Colin. Here, he honours his family heritage by reproducing and building on the cuisine of his grandfather to produce a little snippet of France.
Step through double French doors into a room evoking a grand old Parisian café, with pretty Art Deco glass lamps, long bevel-cut mirrors, parlour palms and iron railway shelves. The sweeping period-style bar sets the tone.
There’s probably no other restaurant in town to offer foie gras the way they do here. The pan-seared slice is savoury and caramelised, yet still rich and buttery, and paired with yielding confit prunes and bitter orange sauce. The same love for bistro cooking can be seen in the Burgundy snails baked in their shells, and the hand-cut steak tartare with condiments. Steak frites – perhaps the most classic bistro dish – is always irresistible.
PSST! Check out the cheese trolley and see what the day’s perfectly matured offering – served with dried fruit and walnuts – might be.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide
Level 1, The Old Rum Store, 2–10 Kensington Street, Chippendale