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L'avis de Gault&Millau
It hits you on entry here – the inviting smell of espresso, the warm aroma of oven-fresh pizza al taglio and the sweet vanilla scent of a crème-filled pastry. Head Chef Akira Urata might hail from the Land of the Rising Sun, but having worked both at Criniti’s and Merivale’s Uccello, his heart is pure Italia.
Split over two areas at street-level, the cool dark-wood and mirrored space evokes Roman chic with banquette seating and booths.
Available bench space might be commandeered for pasta duty, or to cool pastries and pizze as they emerge. Be tempted by the meltingly soft calamari in a crunchy, light batter, served on a balsamic emulsion with floppy rocket leaves to grip the seafood. Or try silky luxe cured ocean trout with pickled caper leaves and buffalo mozzarella. Mains like orecchiette with pork sausage, broccoletti and ricotta salata showcase everything great about Italian regional cooking, while a modern twist emerges in a tagliata of skirt steak on bagna cauda and grilled green Turkish peppers.
PSST! Finish your meal with a bracing corretto: coffee ‘corrected’ with grappa.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide