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L'avis de Gault&Millau
There’s a familial connection to Melbourne Cantonese temple Flower Drum, with co-owner Peter Lau being the nephew of iconic restaurateur Gilbert Lau. Perhaps some family recipes have made the trek north, but they’ve certainly been given their own character at Fei Jai.
The restaurant is spread over two rooms, around a staircase and apartment entrance. This edgy, modern dining space features neon highlights, exposed brick, and seating areas that span indoors and out – all the better to enjoy on a mild Sydney evening.
Inspiration is broadly pan-Asian via a Cantonese lens, so an Asian-tinged tuna tartare comes in crisp spring roll wrappers, and salt and pepper squid comes with a funky Malay-style salt. There’s real finesse to be found in a classic Cantonese egg-white omelette with market crab. You’re invited to season each mouthful with white pepper and fermented hot sauce to produce a riot of delicious textures and flavours. A plate of crisp fried beef in a tangy sauce is immensely delicious, as is the parade of dumplings making their way to hungry diners.
PSST! Enjoy deep drink discounts over ‘happy hour’ on weeknights.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide