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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Philippine-born Chef Renee Martillano offers an enticing tasting menu at this restaurant high in the skies of Melbourne. Focusing on creating complex flavour combinations using the best of local ingredients, she succeeds in creating visually pleasing, great-tasting dishes.
The venue, at the top of Eureka Tower, with contemporary design by Maddison Architects, is stunning and somehow does not distract diners from enjoying the superb food and magnificent views across the city.
The five- or seven-course degustation menu begins its journey through Chef Martillano’s creativity with mussels and smoked eel, with potato and a bitey wasabi-based sauce – a complex and flavoursome dish. Beetroot, gruyère and macadamia combine perfectly with the flavours of goat milk and nasturtium. Continue the journey with Cape Grim beef, perfectly medium–rare. The beef is tender and full of flavour, the mushrooms and charred baby onion work beautifully together, and the milk flavour of dried lactose gives this dish a natural finish.
PSST! Make sure you arrive at the venue early to take a tour on the viewing level, where you’ll get a 360-degree view across Melbourne.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide