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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Dutch-born Head Chef Silas Orre heads up the French kitchen at Curly Whiskers, a quirky, sweet, sustainable bistro in Brighton.
The small restaurant is like dining at someone’s home. A large island bench serves as a work surface and produce display and the chef cooks up a storm in the kitchen area beyond. It’s a warm, casual environment with classic French music in the background accompanied by the clanging of pots and pans.
The menu is small but fulfilling. The starter special may be a trio of scallops – three lush, lightly seared specimens, prettily served in their shell with a soft beetroot vinaigrette. Mains may include a bouillabaisse – a classic tomato-based soup with pink and white fish, juicy prawns and mussels with fresh fennel. Perfect with a crusty sourdough for dipping! Bourguignon d’agneau is a slow-braised lamb with carrots, mushrooms and bay leaves soaking in a rich jus. A side of legumes may include chargrilled zucchini, carrots and caramelised red pepper with fresh herbs and mountains of garlicky goodness.
PSST! Curly Whiskers offers BYO wine on Wednesdays.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide