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L'avis de Gault&Millau
A spin off from downstairs, CUMULUS UP. is another of Andrew McConnell’s ventures. Not just another wine bar, this place boasts a unique and excellent wine list with outstanding food to match.
Large windows create an airy feel to the high-ceilinged room that features exposed brick walls and attractive pendant lighting.
You could start some super-fresh oysters from Cloudy Bay, Tasmania or a plate of charcuterie. A super-inventive dish of duck waffle foie gras is rich and robust with a sweetness from prunes, while the chopped beef tartare features delicious meat neatly presented in a linear fashion with a dollop of green tartare and a salty fried anchovy. A colourful plate of heirloom carrots is served with a macadamia nut accompaniment and lovely herbaceous tarragon. If you fancy fish, try the delicious hapuka fillet served with grilled spring onion and slices of parsnip. Cooked to perfection, luscious O’Connor sirloin is accompanied by crisp lettuce in a creamy house dressing or fries, along with piquant mustard.
PSST! In winter, CUMULUS UP. showcases the exceptional wines of a different region every first Saturday.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide