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Cho Cho San
L'avis de Gault&Millau
With a résumé that contains names such as Rockpool, Billy Kwong, ester and Bodega, Chef Nic Wong has clearly pursued a skill set across a broad portfolio of cuisines and styles. This diverse culinary background is apparent on the menu, where an authentic Japanese baseline is skilfully executed with an innovative Australian approach.
The bright, welcoming space has a minimal and industrial feel that is softened with light wood and white stone walls.
The menu covers all the bases, and includes some inventive adaptations of Japanese classics. The pumpkin and shiitake okonomiyaki is soft, rich, intense and satisfying. Showing a lighter and more deft hand, the raw Petuna ocean trout is well handled and served with crisp daikon and a thin sauce of light soy and wasabi. It arrives at the perfect temperature, and the balanced sauce allows the fish to be accentuated rather than suppressed. The rice-stuffed calamari with yuzukosho has just the right amount of give in the flesh, and the rice stuffing is an umami bomb whose richness surpasses expectations.
PSST! Cho Cho San has a well-crafted sake selection that allows for flights, so start exploring …
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide