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L'avis de Gault&Millau
With an impressive culinary background, including solid time at Bentley Restaurant + Bar, Chef Pip Pratt now applies his skills to cooking serious steaks over an open flame of charcoal, wood and olive branches.
Enter via a fire escape, off a city back alley, down some stairs and through an unmarked door, where you are transported into a cosy and welcoming bar. This, in turn, leads into the chic, spacious restaurant, where the butcher’s block and the hearth are the central features.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the main event here. Each steak is sawed from the main slab, weighed and presented to the table for approval before cooking. It arrives medium–rare, well rested, and pre-cut, still shaped around the bone. The accompanying dishes easily stand alone: the witlof, zucchini and hazelnut provides the right textural balance to the rich salty meat, while the beetroot with ricotta and burnt butter adds an earthy contrast.
PSST! The candle they light as you are seated is actually beef dripping, and is melted and ready for dipping when the freshly baked focaccia arrives.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide