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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Head Chef Fabrizio Amenta leads the kitchen team at Arlechin, a recent addition to the Grossi family stable of Italian restaurants.
Arlechin fills a particularly ‘Melbourne’ niche in the dining scene: a high-end bar, tucked away in a gritty CBD laneway, this cellar space is warm and sophisticated, with a cork-panelled arched ceiling and leadlight touches. It offers a place to drink and eat with friends late into the night.
The menu is a well-curated list of small to not-so-small dishes in an Italian/modern Australian style, perfect for sharing. The tender, deep-fried calamari is complemented beautifully by a rich tomato and ‘nduja-infused, creamy and slightly smoky sauce, with preserved lemon adding a piquant contrast. There are a number of pasta dishes, including the popular ‘midnight spaghetti’ and a potato ravioli topped with a creamy sauce and plenty of shaved black truffle. A rich dish of celery-infused lamb neck with finely sliced, crispy fried parsnip is perfect comfort food.
PSST! Arlechin has a fabulous cocktail list – why not try a refreshing Jungle Bird or pep yourself up with a Late Night Reviver?
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide