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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Tasmanian-born Chef Christian Ryan trained in Hobart, before working in Melbourne at Taxi Dining. Branching further afield, he then worked for Gordon Ramsey when he was reopening the Savoy Grill in London.
Aløft restaurant is perched on top of Brook Street Pier, with panoramic harbour views. The simple, open space – all wooden floors, dark woods, skylights and tall windows – is a perfect backdrop to the seasonal approach to the menu that draws on Australasian and regional influences.
Start with the master stock pig’s ear and prickly ash. Cooked long and slow, and finished in the fryer, these are a textural delight with intense flavour, and a side of guilty pleasure. The turnip cake, with kunzea and black pepper mushrooms, is a clever combination of smooth and crunch, balanced with just the right amount of acid and salt, making for a surprisingly complex dish with interesting contrast. The comfort food category is well covered by the Cape Grim beef, with brassicas (broccoli) and anchovy – a simple, innovative and elegant dish.
PSST! Aløft offers a full range of banquet menus, catering for vegans, coeliacs, vegetarians and pescetarians.
Reviewed for the 2019 Guide