Poly

Owner/Executive Chef Mat Lindsay – yes, his name should be familiar, think ester in Chippendale – has ventured down the wine-bar pathway, taking us on a gastronomic journey of vinous twists and turns.

Poly occupies an expansive space in the Paramount House Hotel, with concrete and industrial warehouse minimalism at the fore, populated with lengthy wooden communal tables and an L-shaped bar that flows into another communal table. At its heart is a truly open kitchen with an impressive grill.

A delicious, perfectly cooked pile of flavour-packed vongole sits nestled in mouth-watering broth, studded with salty, cured, umami-laden bottarga, a floral touch of mandarin zest and the succulent crunch of karkalla. To follow, the glorious whole tea-smoked and charred quail arrives proudly front and centre at the table, its skin blackened and glistening with all the promise of crispy, smoky goodness. Thoughtfully sliced and jointed by the chef, it’s served with freshly ground ultra-aromatic peppers and lemon; combine these, then dip in the quail meat and enjoy every memorable mouthful.

PSST! The grilled house-made bread is a must to try.

Reviewed for the 2019 Guide