This charming turn-of-the-century post office is the perfect backdrop to Chef RJ Lines’ clean, elegant, bistro-style fare. With an eye to seasonality and an approach that lets each ingredient sing, it’s no wonder he’s got a following. A high ceiling and soft lighting provide a sense of occasion in the downstairs dining room, which also features a long counter bar, neatly spaced tables, sweeping bay windows and a small balcony.
With a menu designed for sharing, your waiter should be able to advise on an ideal combination. Crunchy falafel on a beetroot smear make a lip-smacking starter, along with perfectly crisp-yet-tender salt cod fritters paired with a smoked chilli mayo. Flagship barely-seared king prawns bathed in spiced butter are presented with a flourish at the table, while a simple hand-cut beef tartare arrives perked up with tangy pearls of finger lime.
PSST! If there’s a wait for your table, fear not, Vernon’s Bar upstairs makes for a happy diversion.