Owner/chef Nino Zoccali has re-cast his elegant wine bar and osteria atop the city’s most elegant retail arcade to channel Rome, lifting the calibre of this place from that of a humble pizza and wine joint to something quite special.
The already sultry bar area has gained extra polish and adjacent tables are now more enclosed and private. The main dining room boasts new panels and finishes giving it a distinct Euro-chic vibe, while in the kitchen the freshly installed Roman grill has spawned a whole new page for the menu.
To start, see if there’s any porchetta available and if so, reserve it. Now you can peruse the menu unhurried, starting perhaps with a thin crust porcini mushroom pizza, or a plate of tiny pork polpettine, which come with cubes of crisp polenta, pancetta shards and olive salsa, a symphony of textures and flavours. Your earlier order of porchetta makes the perfect main with perfect crackling, tender sage and pepper-scented meat served with grilled cos and jus. Or perhaps a dish of slow-braised beef cheeks is more to your liking, with a side of roasted bone marrow which gives it incredible warmth and richness. You’ll still find daily house-made pastas and pizzas, but it’d be a shame to not sample what’s now on offer. Just be sure to leave room for cheese and digestivi to finish.
PSST! They’re really keen to help you learn about Italian wines and hold regular, good value tastings on weeknights. Details online.