Originally from Hokkaido, Chef Motomu Kumano’s cooking career began at the age of 16, and he built his experience base in the gastronomic hub of Osaka. When he arrived in Melbourne in 2005 he worked at Kenzan before opening Komeyui in 2011.
The design is classic, with a plain light wooden sushi bar offering counter seating, or there are small tables available. The service is attentive and informed, and the sake list is comprehensive.
The omakase sushi and sashimi is available at the bar if you want to relinquish control and enjoy the day’s best selection, but there are some gems on the menu that demonstrate the layers and breadth of Japanese cuisine. The ox tongue is a deceptively simple dish: salted, grilled and serve with minced spring onion. Tender, and with a velvety texture, it is pure umami. For a masterclass in patience, the kakuni-braised pork is cooked in a rich masterstock for 10 hours. Melting and tender, it is served with crisp shallots and okra to balance the intensity.