Some time ago Finnish-born Pasi Petänen was Head Chef at Marque, before embarking on a varied, sporadic and successful journey through region, technique and innovation, where Finnish inspiration plugs into cuisines that span Italy, Mexico and Vietnam. Having been the king of the ‘pop-up’ for so long, it’s exciting to see him settle into a permanent space.
The new digs are all exposed brick and whites, but with the signature grey on the ceiling – all softened with walnut tables and an elegant blue/green banquette.
Start with the devilled eggs and the barbajuan – both perfectly executed classics. Follow with the chicken liver Paris-Brest with onion jam – a rich and intense parfait, served inside a type of choux bagel. The pickled kingfish with potato and buttermilk is a playful riff on fish and chips, delivering clever contrasting textures with good acid and seasoning. A standout dish is the potato dumpling with XO trout – impossibly soft gnocchi with a rich and satisfying trout XO sauce – a technically impressive umami bomb.
PSST! Sit at the bar to get the best view of the action.