Long-serving chef Joe Camilleri continues to rattle the pans at this Sydney institution, named for the inimitable restaurateur Beppi Polese. It is said that this is the nation’s oldest, continuously run restaurant, making this iconic restaurant a true survivor. Just stepping inside transports you back in time and into a dining room with terracotta-tinged walls and cloth-covered tables.
Start with carpaccio of beef with rocket and horseradish cream, which arrives at room temperature before being dressed at the table. For main course, perhaps try the veal saltimbocca, a classic preparation served with asparagus tips and a shock of fried leek. Pastas include a house-made angel hair with crab and scallop meat, decorated with jewels of salmon roe – a perfect match for an aged white wine from their cellar.
PSST! For a truly memorable – and romantic – dining setting, book a table in the atmospheric cellar, where seemingly ancient, dust-coated racks store impressive vintages from many Australian and Italian marques.