UPDATE: In February 2019, Tom Haynes (formerly Head Chef at CHISWICK) has been appointed Executive Chef at Bea and the associated venues at Barangaroo House.
The challenging brief of redefining Australian cuisine is taken on by Chef Cory Campbell (ex-Vue de monde), who definitely has the credentials to strive towards that laudable ambition.
The jewel in the crown that is Barangaroo House features Bea in the middle level of this architectural masterpiece, positioned elegantly between the popular concourse House Bar and the more upmarket Smoke Bar on the rooftop.
The rustically cut, well-seasoned steak tartare, interspersed with blueberries, is all about sublime textures and balance. In what has become the signature dish, the slightly more sophisticated and spectacularly executed marron gratin hits the mark perfectly. The whole roast duck (sourced from an artisan producer near Goulburn), with its Cajun-style spicing, divine texture, depth of flavour and smokiness, delivers a showstopping dish that makes a statement about the underlying philosophy of the kitchen.
PSST! The wine list has the necessary gravitas to back up the ambition of the food; however, starting with a lazy cocktail upstairs always remains an option.