Machines, concrete and steel are what strike you on entry to this two-storey establishment with a bright open kitchen, subtle lighting and seductive – nay, sexy – repurposed engine decor. The brainchild of Chef Clayton Wells, the crisp, clean lines reflect the precision of his cuisine, which draws on classic techniques and unusual ingredients.
Each floor of the restaurant is dominated by a long, flowing, communal table, with a bar downstairs and smaller tables set apart. The top floor boasts a curved wood-panelled roof for a striking organic contrast.
The five-course set menu changes with the seasons and, in some cases, with flushes of produce. Highlights might include a tartare of tomato, dressed with tomato vinegar on a smear of sheep milk curd hiding under beautiful slivers of ruby black plum, providing not just texture but puckery tartness to offset the rich late-summer tomato. Or there might be a striking dish of steamed Murray cod, set on a slow-cooked turnip puree beside a thin fold of daikon radish with kelp oil.
PSST! Five courses too much? Enjoy three courses for lunch for only $60.