Chef Kumar Mahadevan has a whole subcontinent to draw inspiration from at this well-loved local favourite, now approaching 30 years of service. He particularly enjoys preparing dishes from his native Tamil Nadu, where coconut, ginger and green chillies dominate, along with seafood.
The tastefully decorated dining room faces the open kitchen. Upstairs, a bar takes centre stage with plenty of space for groups and occasions.
Start with some chicken tikka nimbuda, served charred and juicy straight from the tandoor, or savour delicate blue swimmer crab patties with potato, green chilli, coriander and ginger. Curries here are far more complex and layered than you’ll usually find, so for instance, a classic beef vindaloo is tricked up with sourness from vinegar and the hum of black pepper. Cashew milk is the secret behind the smooth richness of a baby eggplant and green bullhorn chilli masala, a speciality of Hyderabad, and you can almost smell the beach in the signature seafood moily, a turmeric–coconut curry of prawns, scallops and white fish.
PSST! Friday to Sunday nights, you’ll find delicious lamb biryani on the menu.